Can I paint shiny kitchen cupboards?
You must first rough up the surface before you paint. Sand it with sandpaper, about 150 grit, then wipe off any dust. Also, you cannot put one type of paint on top of a different kind, it won't stick. Ex: you cannot put latex paint on top of an oil-based paint.
I know you already ripped out the cupboards, but this advice is for other people.
I HAD THE OLD DARK WOOD SHINYER THAN ?.
I WASHED THEM GOOD AND TOOK LATEX WHITE PAINT AND PAINTED THEM, IT TOOK TWO COATS BUT THEY TURNED OUT GREAT! I REMOVED THE DOORS AND HAVE WHITE OPEN FACED CABNIETS NOW. ALOT MORE ROOM . IT WAS VERY EASY....
Here is how I painted mine: I took steel wool in a medium fine grade and full strength amonia (to clean off 4 decades of grime and to dull the finish) and washed the cabinets down. When completely dry, I primed them with Zinzer BIN primer. This is the most important step if you want the finish to last. When the primer was dry I carefully sprayed them with a good quality (not Walmart or off brand) spray paint.
I did this project in 2001 and there is not one chip, scratch or paint flake that I can find in spite of hard daily use and having two indoor dogs. Best of all, it is washable.
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I am considering painting my kitchen cupboards. They have been in my home for over 40 years and although they have been cleaned on the occasional spring cleaning, I know that they have a lot of grease and dirt build up on them. What is the best way to prepare these for painting?
Clean them according to the directions on the box of trisodium phosphate, better known as TSP. Rinse well.
We are planning to do a little remodeling in our kitchen. We plan to replace the doors and drawer fronts on the 24-year-old cabinets with those white, vinyl-coated ones. The sheets of vaneer that you stick onto the sides of the cabinets only come 24" wide so we are thinking of painting those surfaces. How do we do this? Is there a lot of prep. work to be done to the surface first?
Painting, if done well, requires a lot of prep work. With something as important as cabinets, you want to make sure it is done right. Make sure that the previous finish is prepared so the paint will stick. This can be done either with a stripping chemical or by a thorough sanding. Sometimes covering with shellac or another primer will help. Otherwise the paint may not cover well. Your best bet would be to talk to the paint department of your hardware store, possibly bringing in one of the cabinet doors so they can advise you what will work. - Staff (10/10/2002)
Thanks, "Staff". Guess what? We changed our minds and have torn all the cabinets out and had new ones installed. It's been a very long process (since October, it is now January) because the company we got them from kept sending various parts in the wrong shade of white. I will finally get my stove installed, hopefully, this weekend!
My best advice to anyone interested is to talk to customers of the cabinet company you are thinking of using before purchasing. The lumber company we got these cabinets through are so disgusted with the cabinet company that they are no longer going to handle that brand! (01/17/2003)
I moved into a home a few years ago that was built in 1973 and still had the original dark wood kitchen cabinets. We remodeled on the cheap by hand sanding all the cabinets and electric sanding all the doors. We then hand painted the cabinets with a quality white oil based paint and sent the doors/drawers to a professional painter who used a electric sprayer. The doors came out like new! The professional painter was able to paint them flawlessly with several coats of paint. He even tightened up some of the joints of drawers for us.
Then we purchased all new hardware in a brushed silver and and the kitchen cabinets looked like new! It's been a few years and they still look good, very little chipping. There is bound to be a few bangs against the doors - I just touched them up with some spray enamel on a Q-tip. I've only had to do this once.
Oil based paint really looks great on wood - it's got a high gloss and seems to soak into the wood better than Latex.
I can't remember exactly what we paid - the painter got us a catalog of hardware and we got a deal on it. Maybe a few dollars a door. He charged us about $15 a door and we saved by painting the cabinets ourselves and sanding. If we had had the time, we could have saved even more by renting a paint sprayer and spraying the doors ourselves. Hand painting the doors probably would have been fine - it just looked so much more flawless with a paint sprayer.