Evergreen Trees: Evergreen trees seldom need pruning. If you prune, wait until after the tree has completed substantial new growth, or you may end up having to prune it again-usually late spring or early summer.
Deciduous Trees: Deciduous trees also seldom need pruning. If pruning is needed to maintain shape, it should be done in mid to late winter while the tree is dormant.
Berry Bushes: Berry bushes are usually best pruned in late fall or early winter. Regular pruning to maintain shape can be done throughout the season, but is best done immediately after harvesting to minimize production loss.
Evergreen Shrubs: Evergreen shrubs don't flower, but some produce cones. Typically, it's best to prune evergreen shrubs between late winter and early spring-after they produce cones.
Deciduous Shrubs: Let the flowers guide you. It's best to prune shrubs back immediately after they flower (usually late spring or summer).
Rosebushes: Older shoots and those turned inward should be pruned by late winter-early spring at the latest. Cut remaining 4 to 8 canes to a length of 12 to 24 inches. Ideally, cuts should be made within an inch above a bud or strong shoot.
Deciduous: any perennial plant, tree, or shrub that loses all of its foliage for part of the year
Evergreen: any tree, shrub, or plant that bears foliage throughout the year
Formative Pruning: Formative pruning is a technique usually reserved for young plants, plants that have outgrown their space, or for plants remaining after another plant in close proximity has been removed (to prevent growth from looking lopsided). Essentially, it's pruning to train or correct shape.
Pruning for Rejuvenation: Occasionally, it's necessary to prune old shrubs to renew their vigor. Some shrubs respond well to hard pruning, while others are better rejuvenated over a period of 2 to 3 years. If your shrub has not been pruned regularly, go slowly and space pruning over several seasons. Select no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the oldest wood in a single season. After pruning, feed plants and keep soil moist and well mulched. Generally, plants that grow more than 12 inches in a season usually respond well to hard pruning. Plants that grow more slowly (less than 12 inches per year) should be pruned more gently and only when necessary.
Pruning for Pests and Disease: Just like it sounds, this type of pruning is done in response to the outbreak of disease or pests.
Oh wow, that's quite fascinating to know that fruit trees should be pruned and trimmed before the buds start to swell. This sure would be something to be sharing to my wife since it's what she's been wanting to know. Well, since I bought her an apple and a cherry tree she's been wanting to know how to start pruning them.
When or if do you cut back a crepe myrtle?
We have had a huge 125 foot oak tree right next to our house for over 25 years. We've been told it was close to 200 years old. I have treasured this tree, and threatened to chain myself to it to keep hubby from cutting it down.
When done correctly pruning aids in controlling plant growth, enabling flower and fruit generation, and maintaining the health of all plant life in the surrounding area. You want to be sure to carry on this task by utilizing the correct tools. Dull cutters will bruise your plants and shrubs and may cause health problems. Remember, when you prune a plant, although it does not bleed like us, it does have an open wound. The cleaner and quicker the cut the faster it will heal and the less likely any disease will have time to take root.
The tools you will most likely need are hand pruning shears, a lopper, and a pruning saw. A good, sharp pair of hand pruning shears are effective for any close cutting that needs to be done. When cutting the plant you should not have to struggle, cuts should be immediate and crisp. For branches up to one-half inch use lopping shears and when branches exceed that diameter defer to the saw.
There are three basic steps to pruning - cutting away branches that are harmful to your plant's health; cutting in order to thin out the plant; and cutting back to reduce plant size. First all diseased, dead or broken branches should be cut. Always make sure your cuts are clean; the remaining surface should be devoid of any torn or strained tissue. Take care not to damage the bark above or below the cut. Like your skin, the bark is your plant or shrub's primary defense against disease and unwanted visitors.
Proper pruning is a good way to help your plants and shrubs stay healthy while preparing them for budding.
Next look for branches that are impeding new growth such as tangled, crossed over limbs. These should be cut. If the plant is still too thick do not cut away new growth, this will hinder your plant's progress. Get rid of older branches, looking for any that are clearly different from the others. If you have growth that is well beyond the average branch length, cut that back to a bud about a half-foot below the common branch length.
You may want to reduce the size of the shrub or tree. At this point you want to do three things - insure future uniform growth, prepare for successful budding, and maintain plant health. To do this cut back each branch four to six inches, stopping at a new bud. Do not cut more than one branch at a time; each branch should be cut separately to facilitate clean, crisp cuts that won't damage the plant. In doing this you'll also be able to create a natural look and a clear path for seasonal growth.
As you venture out to prepare your shrubs and trees for the coming spring, perhaps it's best to remember the Hippocratic Oath: "Above all else, do no harm." Happy and healthy pruning!