Hardiness Zone: 8a
By Jeanne from Decatur, GA
Here are the recent answer to this question.
http://www.growingthehomegarden.com ... myrtle-propagation-step-by-step.html
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/tre ... -to-propagate-crepe-myrtle-trees.htm
http://www.growingthehomegarden.com ... -myrtle-propagation-by-cuttings.html
Here are questions related to Starting a Crape Myrtle from a Cutting.
What is a crape myrtle node? What does it look like and how do you root them?
By Pete B.
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Hardiness Zone: 8a
Rita from Dallas, TX
Crape Myrtle trees can be propagated by both hardwood or softwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings from dormant plants root easily in the winter, especially with a bit help from some rooting hormone. They can be taken in December. Softwood cuttings root easily in the summer (May). I would recommend taking several cuttings in the event that some fail. If you end up getting several cuttings to root, you can always give them away to your new neighbors. Take 4-inch long cuttings, each with a bud 1/4 of an inch from the top end. They should be about as thick as a pencil. Dip the bottom of each cutting into a rooting hormone and insert the cuttings into a pot filled with a moist lightweight potting soil or soil-less mix. The cuttings should be kept humid and moist (not wet) until they have developed several sets of leaves. This can be accomplished by placing the top half of a 2-liter bottle over the pots. If things start to get too moist, just remove the covering for a few minutes to allow them some air. Keep the cuttings in a warm, bright location, but out of direct sunlight.
Good luck with your move!
The following information is from:
Crape myrtle is easily propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings taken during the growing season. June, July and August are excellent times to root cuttings. Take cuttings from new growth of the season, leaving three to four nodes per cutting and several leaves. Rooting hormone is generally not necessary, and cuttings should root in three to four weeks. Place cuttings in a well-drained rooting medium in a shaded area and keep them moist by enclosing them in a clear plastic bag.
Cuttings also can be placed in prepared outdoor rooting beds. Thoroughly cultivate the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Add 4 to 5 inches of organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold or pine bark to the surface and thoroughly mix it into the soil.
Place the cuttings approximately 6 inches apart. Insert them one-half their length into the soil. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of pine straw, leaf mold or pine bark to conserve moisture. Keep them moist with regular misting. The young rooted plants can be transplanted to their permanent location during the fall and winter. (09/18/2006)
I do this with my Confederate Rose, also. I have White ones and the Pink, too. It works for me every time. After I see the roots I plant them in pots of potting soil. Here is a pic of a Pink Confederate Rose of mine. I did this with cuttings from a seven Sisters Rose, also Sherry Hampton. (10/12/2006)
I just returned from Tennessee and discovered Crape Myrtles for the first time. They were in full bloom and are just beautiful. I would love to plant one in Richmond, IN. I think the hardiness zone is 6, but I'm not sure. I will be back through TN in September and am wondering if it would be possible to get a start from one of the trees there.
If so, how do I get a start? What are the next steps to get it planted in Indiana? I am by no means a gardener so any and all information that would be helpful would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
By dherron from Richmond, IN
I have several crape myrtle cuttings that are doing great, but they look like cuttings. Will they eventually form trunks on their own or is there something I need to do to make that happen?
Hardiness Zone: 9a
By Gary from Metairie, LA
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