If your pond it beginning to look like a vat of split pea soup it is time to clean it and begin using some maintenance techniques to keep it that way. This is a guide about keeping pond water clear.
My husband and I have been trying to keep ourselves extremely busy for the past four months to avoid unemployment-related depression. As we currently have zero (0, none, nada, zip) income, we are getting very creative with our time and energy.
Our pond is rapidly being overgrown with an invasive pond-weed called Milfoil. This stuff makes it almost impossible to fish in the pond, and it exacerbates fish-kill in the winter by robbing oxygen from the water as the stuff dies and rots. We decided a good way to keep ourselves occupied is to drag this stuff out of the pond an armful at a time. This has also proved to be great exercise, as the stuff is terribly heavy when wet!
Hubs rigged up a hook from a piece of metal (I had salvaged it on a pre-unemployment trip to the lake), a large fishing sinker, and some nylon trot line. We throw the weed-harvesting-rig out into the pond and slowly drag it back in, bringing 20-40 pounds of the weeds back to the bank with it. We load up the garden trailer and pull up to 200-300 hundred pounds at a time to the garden. We are improving our aim every day, and spend roughly an hour a day harvesting this stuff, as well as 20-30 minutes spreading it.
The pictures aren't the best, but I think you get the idea. We are hoping to get enough "mulch" tonight to finish the paths in the tomato garden. We have also mulched our grapevines with it and hope to do our asparagus bed with it in the fall. When dry, it is very light and soft to walk on. It's a wet, dirty job, but we are enjoying working together on a big project, and it feels so good to be building muscles while recycling our pond weeds!
Source: Thought of it myself and did a little online research to see if it was a good idea---turns out it was!
Thanks Abigail--Doctors say prognosis is excellent but I can definitely say that cancer is not thrifty, and it most certainly isn't fun.
Thank you and God Bless You. This article shows that even under the most dire situation, there is still hope.
Thank you Bonnie! We're slowly starting to recover, financially, as well as physically. I think for me keeping busy was the best thing I could do,...otherwise I start to feel worthless.
Even while I was recovering from the surgeries, as soon as I could actually do it, I started crocheting, just to stay busy. It was the simplest, most mindless pattern for a potholder, but I was doing something. Two surgeries,...five potholders!
Find something to keep you busy, no matter what the hard circumstances are---you'll feel better!
Well done. I shared on my garden tips on pinterset. Great tip.
Murky brown water is almost always caused by an excess of algae. Some types of algae float to the top and "bloom," while others remain suspended in the water column, causing the water to look dark. If your pond contains fish, chemical controls may not be safe for them. One safe and economical solution is to submerge barley straw wrapped in netting into the water. As is decays, it releases a chemical that inhibits algae growth. Anchor it to the bottom with a brick or large stone and change it every 6 months.
A pond that is overstocked with fish is prime for algae problems-excess waste (nitrogen) stimulates algae growth. Most pond gardeners calculate the number of fish for their ponds according to the surface area or the number of gallons of water it holds. This might work to start with, but it won't be accurate for long. Remember, fish grow! Consult with your fish supplier to find out how large your fish will grow under ideal pond conditions. Don't forget to add snails, bottom feeders and if possible, some freshwater mussels to help gobble up the algae. According to the USDA, non-aerated ponds should have no more than one, 12" fish per 10 square feet of surface area. (To calculate surface area multiply the length x width of your pond). Aerated ponds can have up to one, 12" fish per 2-3 square feet. They also recommend that the average hobbyist stay well below these guidelines.
Fertilizer leeching in from the lawn or nearby flower beds can overburden the pond's nitrogen load. Avoid using fertilizers where there is a risk they will contaminate your pond water. Traditional fertilizer mixes will promote algae growth, so use a soil mix designed for potting aquatic plants when adding them to your pond. Even then, try to keep the mix confined to the plants by lining underwater pots with burlap and weighing down topsoil with gravel and rocks.
A lot of sun may be great for the rest of your garden, but too much sunlight streaming into your pond causes excess algae. Site your pond strategically near buildings and fences which will cast a shadow over your pond for at least part of the day. The addition of surface plants like water lilies will also provide shade and help hold down the water temperature (algae love warm water). Add a variety of underwater oxygenating plants like Elodea, Microphyllum and Ceratophyllum (1 bunch per 8 inches square). They will help keep water oxygen levels high and algae levels low.
The chemicals that sterilize our tap water can actually work to increase algae blooms. When you refill your pond, try to fill part of it with some water from a stream or even another pond. Nature's water contains insects and other organisms that will help keep the algae population down.
It's important to keep your pond free of decaying vegetation. As plant materials decay under water, they release nutrients that stimulate algae growth. When your pond freezes over in the winter, this decay can also cause toxic gases to build up under the ice. Trim dead or dying foliage from plants located around the margins of your pond. If overhead trees are a problem, consider erecting a frame around the pond so you can cover it with a canopy as necessary or clean leaf debris out daily with a large net.
It can take several months for a new pond to reach an ecological state of balance. In the first few weeks-sometimes months, your pond's water may look murky and even when in perfect balance, it won't be 100% clear any more than a pond in nature would be. The worst thing you can do during this time is keep cleaning and refilling your pond in an attempt to achieve clear water. Every time you do this, the pond has to start over trying to reach a state of balance. Be patient! It will be worth the wait!
Thanks for your help! We'll get back to you after we try the barley straw.
It is must to keep all ponds clear and clean. Its freshness based on its water. For keeping it fresh Pondpro2000 can be very helpful.
This is a guide about controlling algae in a pond. It is frustrating when your beautiful garden pond become a murky green from algae.
Cookiepom from Owensboro, KY
All ponds need some cleaning and maintenance to keep the water clear, but once your pond reaches a state of balance, cleaning and maintenance should stay at a minimal. In new ponds, water is seldom clear for very long and changing the water frequently only delays balancing the ecosystem. The keys to a balanced system are 1) a pond of the proper depth, 2) combined with a good filtration system (biological or otherwise), 3) adding the appropriate amount of plants and fish, and 4) a little bit of patience. Several things could be causing your water to look dark and murky, including algae, bottom silt, and excess waste and decaying debris (falling from the trees overhead).
Make sure the soil on the bottom of your pond is covered with large pieces of slate, sand or gravel to prevent the fish from digging up the plants and stirring up silt. Encourage the growth of submerged plants like Anacharis, Cabomba or Vallisneria (good in shade), which will not only oxygenate the water, but filter out suspended particles. If you haven't added them already, snails, tadpoles and bottom feeding fish are also important partners in eating algae. You may not think you have an algae problem, but algae can't always be seen with the naked eye. It's usually the single-celled algae (suspended in the water) that are responsible for turning it that murky green color. Light, warm temperatures and calm water are really all most algae need to "bloom."
Adding surface plants, like water lilies, will keep the pond cooler and block out light to the algae as they grow. These plants, along with the submerged plants, will eventually kill off the algae by taking up the CO2 and nutrients they need to survive. In a small pond, you'll want to shoot for having at least 50-60% of the surface covered with floating plants. Also, most pond suppliers recommend that a pond with 50 gallons of water or less should contain no more than 2-3 gold fish to keep from overloading the waste cycle. Koi fish are not recommended for smaller ponds because they grow to large.
Barley straw works well for keeping pond water clear. Check out Gardener's Supply Company at www.gardeners.com, and search for "barley". The Barley Pad with Flotation Frame s the product size that would be appropriate for a pond your size. The Barley Ball product description is a bit more useful, though. Good luck!
PetSmart sells squares of pond water cleaner. You get 3 for about 10 bucks. You just float these cleaners in your pond, they are about 10x10 inches. At first they float and eventually sink, they dissolve and you don't have to worry about removing them. Add a new pad every 3 months. They really keep the water clear and sparkling