If you love hydrangeas, as I do, now is the time to propagate them. If you don't have one, maybe a neighbor would let you take a few cuttings. It won't harm the existing plant, so don't be shy in asking. In about 6 weeks you'll be able to plant the cuttings in their permanent site.
I took my cuttings from a Macrophylla Hydrangea. They are very adaptable, I have one planted on the north side of my house (shady) and one on the south side (sunny) and some in dappled sun, under trees. They all bloom beautifully! I have propagated all my hydrangeas this way, but I recently read you can place the cuttings in water to root them. You might want to try that.
Approximate Time: 1/2 hour
I propagated my English laurel hedges the way you describe. The only thing I did differently was, I used playground sand instead of the "peat moss, vermiculite and perlite" mixture. I also tried a half & half peat moss & playground sand mix but my cuttings ALL died. I figured there was something bad in the peat moss or it was the wrong kind. I know you HAVE to use playground sand & not the sand made for brick patios etc because that kind has a weed killer mixed in to it.
---> My question for you is this: I've always loved hydrangeas but haven't grown them because I was told by someone at a plant nursery that Hydrangeas were named that (beginning with "Hydra") because they need so very much water & me, not wanting to water anything if I don't have to (I live in Seattle & am spoiled) I haven't planted hydrangeas because I don't want to raise my water bill. Last week I heard that this isn't true & they don't need a lot of water. Which is true. Do Hydrangeas need daily watering, or can they go a week or more without being watered? The person who told me this has 10 or more hydrangeas & they are all planted right next to a creek in her back yard where they can suck up as much water as they need.
* Also, should you fertilize them, & if so how often?
In response to Cyinda.; watering once or twice a week should be fine, depending on weather conditions. If it's hot and dry with no rain for a week, then the hydrangea might need watering twice that week. The plant will droop a bit, letting you know it needs the water. I have 5 plants and haven't had a bit of trouble. I live in NJ. If you're in Seattle I would imagine you get enough rain to satisfy the hydrangea. As with most plants, if it's new, it would need tender loving care the 1st year. Planting in the shade would have you watering less than if it were placed in full sun. I don't fertilize, But lime will make the blooms pink and 'Miracid' will make them blue! Fun!
Want your hydrangeas to remain fresh, bright & colorful well into the autumn months? Instead of picking & bringing them in to dry, try this: When the blooms start drying on the vine & looking tired & old my friend sprays her's with transparent florist spray (made for silk or dried flowers) while the blooms are still attached to the bush. She uses blue & a light purple or fuchsia & masks the stem off by cutting a slice out of a paper plate then slipping the stem of the flower through the slice then spraying it. Your old dried hydrangea blooms will look like new & the color will remain bright & beautiful for at least 2 extra months!
Don't use regular spray paint. For real looking color you need the transparent floral spray (this spray comes in a can & is sold at most craft stores).
--> I know this tip sounds crazy, but I was pleasantly surprised at how fresh & real these sprayed hydrangeas looked! ...and, one can of coloring will last you for years.
I just tried this and have about 10 cutting that are about 10 days old. Can't wait to see if some make it! I'm also trying it with climbing roses. We'll see.
Here's the advice I used, but I'm doing mine inside in cups.
I have tried to propagate hydrangeas and have not had any luck. When is the best time to take the cuttings? Any help will be very much appreciated with detailed propagation tips.
Hardiness Zone: 6a
By Theresa from St Charles, MO
Follow these steps to grow hydrangeas from cuttings.
ModerateInstructionsThings You'll Need:
Step 1Start new cuttings in the spring, though you can start them as late as August. Choose a cutting that has two or three pairs of leaves. Cut about 6 to 8 inches from the nonflowering stem and remove the bottom pair of leaves.
Step 2Add moist, sandy soil to a small planter cup. Plant the cutting in the soil and cover it with a glass jar. Place the jar in bright, but not direct, light. Leave until roots form. You can also put the cutting in a glass of water. Again, place in bright, but not direct, light.
Step 3Plant the cutting outside, after the roots have been established. Pick a mostly sunny area. Dig a hole that is two times the size of the root ball, place the cutting in the hole and cover it with dirt. Add mulch to the top of the hole to fertilize and help maintain moisture. Water immediately.
Step 4Fertilize with a multipurpose plant fertilizer after 6 weeks. Carefully follow package directions.
Step 5Water frequently, since hydrangeas are water-loving plants. If the plant looks wilted, water immediately or you risk not having any blooms.
Step 6Prune hydrangeas in winter to very early spring. If pruned too late, the hydrangea may not bloom that year. If you are unsure as to proper pruning time, do nothing at all. Let the hydrangea bloom and then carefully prune it. Some hydrangeas will grow only in new stems, and others will bloom from old stems.
Step 7Change the acidity of the soil to change the color of the hydrangeas. Acidic soils yield blue flowers. Alkaline soil gives pink flowers, and neutral soils produce white blossoms. To reduce the acidity of soil, add lime. Add aluminum sulfate to increase the acidity.
P S-I just cut off a limb,stick it the soil,keep damp.
Steps above are great! It does take a few attempts. I took some cuttings last summer and they looked great. I planted them in the fall and it doesn't look like they are making it. Might have been our cold winter, not sure.
My best friend, whom I call my Master Gardener, Has started new hydrangeas by laying a low branch on the ground in the soil. She places something like a rock on the branch to keep it held down. By next spring, you should be able to cut the main branch from the "Mother" bush and transplant your new bush where you want. Good luck! It has worked for her. Lots of shrubs can be done this way.