How you make new plants from cuttings depends on what type of plants you are starting. This guide is about rooting plants.
I've always admired this little plant. The foliage is rather fine, and a dark, glossy green. The flowers are dainty and numerous.
Root your plants and shrubs by cutting a small piece from your plant. Take a paper napkin or paper towel and fold it to hold a handful of garden soil. Place the bottom of the plant in soil and wrap the napkin around the bottom of the plant. Tie with a rubberband to keep soil from falling out and place it in a freezer type zip lock bag. Moisten dirt, not soggy and close ziplock bag. Place in a window and forget it for about 6 weeks. Wala, you now have a plant with roots. This works very well with roses also!
By Sharon from FL
Every late fall just before frost, I take in as many impatiens in pots as I can. During the winter I always get root rot on some of the plants no matter what, even with light watering. So I take cuttings of those and put in little bottles of water & place on windowsills and by spring I have good roots to plant again in soil.
Most people just let their impatiens freeze & die & buy more each summer. Much thriftier to start summer with many free ones. That is very satisfying.
Denise & Linda, in your county there is the agriculture agent and they have free info there to help you. Your fruit trees may have been grafted and if so will not bear the same fruit. But if rooting hasn't worked try air layering you can google it and find out how it is easy just scary to start with and house plants respond greatly to it.
Have fun with it and don't stop trying but do some searching and picking some of the old farmers around don't mind sharing secrets even if you don't know them. I just walk up on the porch and ask ... found lots of good neighbors that way. As for me I just grow things...
I don't quite agree. If they successfully rooted a piece of the graft, they would have a true clone of that graft. Naturally, if they rooted a piece of the root stock, it would not bear the same fruit as the graft.
Has anyone ever used water crystals? Can it be used for rooting plant cuttings? I'd like to try it with rose cutting. Has anyone ever tried it, did it work?
Hardiness Zone: 7a
Gina from Ozone Park, NY
They have worked very well for me. I found out that they need to be deep in the dirt, because one tiny crystal swells into a walnut-size blob of gel, and they popped up out of the dirt and landed on my deck from the hanging basket. I do recommend them even if expensive. BTW, if you get a good deal on those tie-on bandannas that you are supposed to soak in water, then open it up and use the crystals in that, they are the same. My bandanna was damp long enough to grow mold, so I opened it up and used the crystals in a pot in the garden.
But what if I just want to use the crystals in a case without dirt. Do you think the cuttings will still root?
I was wondering if they could be used in a vase alone w/o dirt. Would the cuttings still grow
Using this "Without" dirt is the whole purpose of using water crystals. They are for looks and are supposed to look pretty.
I am putting my home place on the market. I have several plants and flowers that I would like to root. Gardenia, snowball bush, sweet shrub, Camilla's and butterfly bush. Any idea on how to do this?
Hardiness Zone: 8a
I think you can root these plants in pots by using Rootone. It's a powder that you dip the cut end in before you put the plant in the dirt. I feel sure you can find it at Lowe's or Home Depot. Also, strip almost all the leaves off the stem before planting. I have rooted several woody plants this way, altho I put them directly into the ground. I don't see why it wouldn't work for pots, tho. Good luck on selling your house and moving the plants. God bless you!
I forgot to mention that I live in South Georgia! Ha!
For the snowball bush, just dig out some shoots. they'll already have some roots, and hydrengeas should be divided occasionally anyway.
If you can't dig up a shoot, try this. Bend a healthy branch down to the ground. Scrape a bit of bark off the branch where it touches the ground. Cover with soil and put a rock or brick on top to hold it down. The branch should sprout roots, at which time you would cut the branch from the tree. Pull it out of the ground and replant wherever.
Prepare cuttings in the usual manner, however dip the ends of the cuttings in honey instead of rooting powder and you will have a high success rate. An old gardener friend has used this method for over forty years and he believes that the hormones produced by the honey promotes rapid root growth.
By Jan from Poona Queensland Australia
WOW! Now this is something I really gotta try! Thank you for the info! (03/06/2008)
I love my plants, so thanks for the tip! I'll definitely try that. (03/06/2008)
I'm going to try that also. I NEVER have success with the rooting hormone. Thank you for a great tip. (03/06/2008)
By Jean in GA
I usually cannot find my rooting hormone, but I always have honey on hand. Thank you so much for this tip! I can't wait to try it. (03/08/2008)
That is fantastic news since I always forget to buy the rooting powder and I always have honey. Thanks (03/09/2008)
Cheers from sunny Florida!
Honey seems to work great as a "rooting hormone" for any plants except those rooted from softwood - and even then you may have some success. I've used it on softwood cuttings of Cnidoscolus chayamansa ("Chaya") with great results. It's just that some fleshy softwoods (like African Violet, for example) can be rotted via increased bacterial activity spurred on by the honey's sugars in the soil.
The honey seems to have a bit of something resembling growth hormone already in it. As well, the viscous honey seals off the stem fibers, preventing immediate wilt from a sudden drop in vascular pressure, and also starts a bit of pinocystosis* ("cell-feeding") by giving the plant immediately available sugars. It's also nice that honey is also antibacterial, for a short while.
I just prepare the slip in my usual way, dip the end into honey poke a hole in the soil, drop the slip in and water *well*. Poking a hole first before planting is moderately important, as you will not want to disturb the honey coating.
You'll want to keep the cutting a bit on the wet side for a bit (if the plant will normally tolerate it, that is), otherwise the concentrated sugars in the honey, once absorbed, may crystallize and choke the plant cells and cause a rather mystifying, frustrating and *sudden* wilt and plant death.
All in all, I *much* prefer using honey over other commercially available preparations.
*Editor's Note: We have been informed that the correct term for the cell-feeding that is mentioned above is phagocytosis instead of pinocytosis. Here is information on both terms if you are interested:
By Steve C.
This is great information. Now the only thing I'm wondering about, is will this work on vegetable cuttings? (05/27/2010)