Young tender plants often need support and protection from the wind, as well as, browsing animals and birds. This guide is about protecting seedlings.
I just planted my garden for this year. I had started the plants indoors, and we live in the Panhandle of Texas where we get LOTS of wind. I planted these small delicate plants on a very nice day. Then, of course, this morning the wind started blowing. I'm concerned the small plants will be blown to death, and I'll be out there with nothing left in my garden.
So, I got some 2 liter bottles that I had in my recycling bin. I also had some water bottles saved for recycling too. I cut the bottom and the top off and slid them down over my small delicate plants to protect them from the wind. They will still receive the light and I can still water them. This is working great for these plants.
By Nana from Panhandle of Texas
Another use for toilet paper rolls. If you start plants that produce fragile seedlings (like sweet peas) that don't like transplanting, plant them vertically encased in a toilet paper roll. When it's time to transplant, remove the roll and seedling from your medium intact and transplant the whole thing. The roll protects the plant during the transport and after relocating. Then the roll just biodegrades into your soil.
Source: Garden Club info on winter seeding.
By Jeannie from Vancouver BC
It's a universal experience among gardeners, especially in the spring-yanking out a weed only to find out later it was really a "wanted". Weeds will do whatever it takes to survive, even disguising themselves as other plants. Here are some helpful tips for telling your your seedlings apart from your weedlings.
Weeds are pioneers and they usually grow faster than wanted seedlings. Most are up and growing in the spring long before your wanted seeds are planted in the garden. Prepare garden beds several weeks before planting. Dormant weed seeds will germinate in the disturbed soil and produce flushes of weed seedlings that can be removed before planting your garden seeds. Take note of what the weedlings look like as you remove them from the soil. You may also find it helpful to take a camera with you and keep digital files of weedlings on your computer for easier identification later on.
Make it easy to identify weeds by sowing your seeds in straight lines or rows rather than broadcast sowing them. Once germinated, your seedlings (which will all look similar) will easily outnumber the weedlings. Anything growing outside of the line can be considered fair game when it's time to weed.
This works well if you're growing a plant for the first time and you've never laid eyes on the seedlings. Set aside 1/2 dozen of the seeds your sowing outdoors, and plant them in a pot near a sunny windowsill. Your crop of weed-free seedlings will make it easy to tell the weeds from the "wanteds" once they pop up in the garden. At most, you'll be out a few seeds. At best, you may end up with 1/2 dozen additional transplants for your garden.
Plants are either monocotyledons (monocots) or dicotyledons (dicots). Seedlings from monocots have one seed leaf, and include the grasses, palms, aroids and bulbs. Seedlings from dicots have two seed leaves, and include most other types of garden plants. If you have a seedling with only one leaf (monocot) where you know you've only sown dicots, then the seedling is probably a weed. If you've sown seeds of only monocots and your seedling has two leaves (dicot), it is probably a weed.
Sometimes it's best to avoid uncertainty and settle on a wait-and-see approach. As plants grow into their true leaves, it usually becomes easy to tell the weeds and seedlings apart. And with time, comes experience. Once you have been planting and weeding the same garden beds over several seasons, you will find it much easier to recognize the weeds from the "wanteds".
When you want to grow a small amount of seeds, and know exactly where you've planted them, use a toilet paper tube.
Holding the cardboard tube upright, take your scissors and cut upwards about 1 1/2 inches all around the bottom of the roll. You will need to have the strips wide enough to push all of them towards each other to seal off the bottom.
You can also using a small tomato paste can and push newspaper down into the empty can. Cut the paper around the top of the can so it won't hang over the edges. then pop it out of the can and you have another holder.
Just dig holes in the ground, put your growing medium in the container, add the seeds, then I use a plastic knife or something to identify what seeds they are.
Hope you have as much fun as I do making these.
By Tootsiepie from Bay City, MI
Anxious to get our tomato seedlings into the ground, I thought of a way to protect the cute little plants from birds. Grab an old metal cloths hanger by the hook end with one hand and grab the middle of the longer (bottom) part of the hanger with the other hand. Pull with both hands to stretch the hanger so it kind of looks like a big, very odd looking bubble blowing wand. Straighten the hook end out, as it will end up being the post you stick in the ground near the plant. If you like, you can use several "hanger" supports, 8 to 12 inches apart, per plant.
After sticking the post end in the ground, place a piece of bird netting over the top of the newly created support, assuring the netting is touching the ground, by at least 6 inches (more is better) on each side. Tie several pieces of yarn, string or plastic ties to secure the netting to the top of the "hanger" support. You can secure netting to the ground by making "U-shaped" wires from another cloths hanger to push through netting holes, into the ground. Or you could weight down the netting to keep it from blowing in the wind. You can make row covers as well, by using one long piece of netting and strategically placing "hanger" supports in the row. Tie the netting to the top of each support.
When the seedlings become large enough for self-protection from the birds, you can remove the netting. You can save your newly created "hanger" supports for other years. You can tie the hanger supports together, as they will stay better while in storage. It's an inexpensive and easy way to help your seedlings survive. I can't wait to pick that first juicy tomato, can you? And the birds can't wait to pluck those cute little tender seedlings out of the ground. We'll see who wins, as this is the first time I've tried this project. I really think it will work, don't you?
By Susan from Clinton, TN
My sweet grandson always comes over to weed eat in my yard. He cannot tell a weed from a new plant I've put out and has hacked a few of my plants down by accident. Now I cut the top and bottom out of a tin can.
Use the free supermarket plastic carrier bags as small windbreaks for recently planted seedlings.
Young trees are a favorite snack of hungry deer, especially in the spring and fall while there's still snow on the ground. Most young pines can recover from minor amounts of repeat browsing as long as the terminal bud remains intact.
During hot days, put pinestraw on top of new trees or plants to keep the sun from burning them.
Cut off the tops of 2 liter plastic soft drink bottles to use to protect seedlings (and to discourage cutworms). Use the bottoms of the bottles as saucers for potted plants. They work great and will protect surfaces from spills if you over water.
By Laurie from Fairbanks, AK
By Lisingreece from Greece