How do I get the urine smell and stain out of a memory foam mattress?
By Judy from Lincoln, NE
I used natures mirical on my daughters new mattres when my cat peed on it. I poured it right from the bottle. It worked. No smell at all. great stuff for every thing. Got it in the pet store.
Use waterproof sheets as well as waterproof mattress cover, this should help eleviate some of the problem and maybe use waterproof pants for your son.
Question said nothing about the source of urine. What's up with this assumption that it must have been a boy who caused urine smell and the suggestion to essentially wrap him up in plastic?! Please check your biases.
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I'm looking for information on how to clean pet urine from memory foam.
By Allison from Portland, ME
Our cats also peed on our mattress & also on our memory foam & this is how I successfully removed all of the odor & stain from them:
Buy some enzyme based pet stain & odor remover. Like "Out!" or "OutRight Veterinary Strength Pet Stain & Odor Remover". They sell them at Walmart, Target & all pet stores.
* The enzyme-based pet cleaners work by actually speeding up the natural biodegradation process & permanently removing stains & odors. (this is a quote from the back of my enzyme-based pet cleaner)
1) First soak up any urine by placing a towel on the bottom & top of the foam then roll & squeeze it as the foam is sandwiched between the foam. But if the urine is already dry, then omit this step & continue to step 2.
2) Place a piece of plastic or an unfolded garbage bag under the Memory Foam then saturate this foam with the enzyme-based pet cleaner & odor remover, then cover the top of the foam with another piece of plastic to keep the area wet (this works for memory foam, mattresses, carpeting with foam rug-pads & upholstered furniture as well).
The products good bacteria & enzymes in the cleaner only work while it's wet, so keep the cleaner on the Memory Foam wet for at least 1 day or overnight. To be sure all the urine is gone, you can repeat this process after first squeezing out the first batch of cleaner into clean, dry towels.
After a day or 2 of the Foam being wet, sandwich the foam between 2 light-colored towels & squeeze out as much of the cleaner as you can & the foam let air dry.
* No need to rinse, the enzymes have now "eaten up" the stain & odor. If you really want to rinse, use peroxide or the vinegar-water formula shown below in place of water.
3) As an additional step, you can also pour peroxide directly into the foam (with plastic placed under it)... Do not use the peroxide before the enzyme cleaner because the peroxide will kill the good bacteria & enzymes that make the cleaner work. Only use peroxide AFTER you have let the enzyme-based cleaner sit for several days & it'd done working.
* If you catch them right away, you can remove small urine stains & odors, by using 1 part white vinegar mixed with 4 parts of water. But for stubborn ORGANIC stains, use an Enzyme-based Pet cleaner or Hydrogen Peroxide!
---> The above cleaners (Enzyme cleaners & Peroxide) work to easily clean all ORGANIC stains including pee, poop, blood, hairballs, red wine, grape juice & most natural foods like coffee & hot chocolate. (they do NOT work on foods with dyes like Jell-O, kool-aid & soda-pop with artificial colors added). Just spray on the peroxide, then wait for 15 minutes or more & repeat. On carpeting & rugs I also use an old toothbrush to get the cleaner deep into the rug, then blot with a paper or regular towel.
My Personal Experiences:
* Enzyme Cleaners: The enzyme-based cleaners are so amazing! One day I found a BIG nasty dried-on hairball my cat had left days before in a corner of my wall-to-wall carpeting so I liberally sprayed some of the enzyme cleaner on to the mess to soak. (I used the brand called "Out!") I planned to come back in 15 or 20 minutes to finish cleaning up the mess but I got sidetracked & totally forgot about it until my boyfriend asked me the next day if I had cleaned up the cat's mess, so I went over to the spot where the mess had been & planned to finish my cleaning, but there was nothing there! That enzyme pet cleaner had removed every bit of that dried-on hairball! Ever since then I have been sold on these wonderful enzyme pet cleaners.
* Perioxide: Before we put our house on the market to sell, I had to clean the rugs after renters had lived there. There were big spots of hot chocolate, mocha & coffee all over the carpeting. These spots had been there for years. I put some Peroxide into a small well-marked spray bottle & sprayed the peroxide directly on to the food stains then left it to sit for about 15 minutes, then came back & used a toothbrush on the stain, then sprayed or poured on a little more peroxide. After it set for another 10 or 15 minutes I came back & blotted-up the peroxide with an absorbent cloth. (no rinsing necessary!) I was totally amazed that each & every one of these hot chocolate, chai & coffee stains came completely out of the carpeting even though these stains were YEARS old!! The old carpeting ended up looking like it was brand new! (Really!) Ever since then I have used Peroxide to remove food stains & dried-on blood. You won't be disappointed!
* Never use anything hot on a stain (like a blow dryer, clothes dryer, iron or even hot water) because the heat will "set" the stain & make it much harder to remove!