Share on ThriftyFunThis guide contains the following solutions. Have something to add? Please share your solution!
It's June and that means the apple trees are fruiting. To improve the quality of fruit this season and increase your flowering next season, now is the time to thin the apple tree. Experts recommend waiting for June Drop, when the smaller immature fruit fall off to make room. This will make them very easy to remove by hand or by a careful shake.
As you work way up each branch, look at the clusters of budding fruit. Usually one apple will stick out as the largest. Remove the smaller apples around it, leaving just one or two. Also, look for any diseased or insect eaten apples and remove them right away.
To make the job a little easier, give each branch a little shake before thinning. You will be surprised how many fall off easily. Don't shake the branch too hard though, you wouldn't want to bruise the fruit you are trying to keep.
The two of us were able to thin the entire tree in about an hour, one on a ladder and the other on the ground. We also took the time to inspect any health or insect issues with the tree. We are looking forward to a great apple harvest this year.
By Jess from Hillsboro, OR
After a few hours of high winds in NE Pennsylvania, our apple trees harvested themselves this year!
Ask a QuestionHere are the questions asked by community members. Read on to see the answers provided by the ThriftyFun community or ask a new question.
My mom put a banana peel, water, and something else in a plastic jug with a hole cut out of the top to prevent worms and lines in the apples. Does anyone know what the ingredients are? I can not remember.
Found it. Mother batch can be split to several jugs. Combine 1 cup apple cider vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 1 cut up banana peel, half gallon of water in a milk jug with large hole towards topside. Leave handle so you can tie it to apple tree branch. Codling moths are what produces the apple worms.
The fruit on my apple tree keeps cracking, why? The soil medium is predominantly clay and I do try to get some compost around the tree. The area the tree stands is almost a water table when it rains hard. I'm at my wits end trying to find a reason for the problem.
I have noted this year that some fruit have small black spots on them. The leaves on the tree are curling also. I can if you wish take digital images and forward them if that would help in trying to diagnose the problems. A similar thing is occurring to my pear tree which is about 20 feet away from the apple tree and the pear was planted about 4 years ago. Hope you can help.
I took a minute to look this info up for you. It sounds like the most likely cause is the tree getting too much water too fast, at a time when the fruit can absorb the extra water and basically burst. Here's what I found ...
I found this on http://www.ext. 023/422-023.html :
Fruit cracking. There are two types of fruit cracking. Physiological Cracking often occurs on 'Stayman' when a high percentage of fruit may split or crack, starting in July. This type of cracking is probably related to the water status in the tree and fruit, but there is no way to suppress cracking to acceptable levels. "Maturity Cracking" develops on varieties such as 'Golden Delicious' and 'Gala', often at the stem end, as the apples become mature. This type of cracking can be minimized by harvesting fruit as the first fruits start to crack.
And, this comes from http://postharv s/skincrack.html :
Occurrence and Importance
Fruit cracking occurs most frequently on Stayman, Wealthy, and York Imperial apples. The condition occurs so frequently and so seriously on the Stayman that it is often termed "Stayman cracking." Rain cracking develops after periods of cloudy, rainy weather, when the rates of evaporation and transpiration are very low. Dumping and floating apples in water before packing them may produce some cracking in thin-skinned varieties or in fruits with numerous open lenticels.
On Wealthy and Stayman apples, cracking occurs chiefly on the cheek of the fruits in the form of irregular breaks in the skin and underlying flesh. The breaks vary from almost invisible short slits to cracks 1/2 inch or more deep that may extend almost completely around the apple. Late in the growing season, cracks may originate near the stem and extend out over the cheek in more or less straight lines towards the calyx. Cracks around the calyx basin are rare. The exposed flesh gradually becomes discolored and decay follows, often while the fruits are on the trees.
In York skin crack, the cracks are small and tend to run in a sidewise direction on the cheek of the fruits. The cracks may make a wavy line. They vary from being barely discernible to being open as much as 1/16 inch. In the late stages of York skin crack, the cracks are very numerous and are likely to be accompanied by wilting of the fruits.
Cracking may also occur in Golden Delicious apples from the absorption of rain water caught in the stem cavity of fully matured fruits. The cracks generally are small, but individual ones may exceed 1 inch in length and be up to 1/4 inch deep. They are oriented concentrically around the stem and are usually associated with russeting of the stem cavity. Cracking of Golden Delicious apples may also occur when immersion dumpers are used in the packing house.
Fruit cracking is more prevalent in the humid growing regions than in irrigated districts. Cracking occurs most frequently during periods of high humidity following rains. Absorption of rain water through the skin, coupled with the uptake of water from the roots, results in rapid enlargement of the fleshy cells. The internal pressure from the enlarged cells of the fruits creates a strain that cracks the skin. Differences in the thickness and composition of the cuticular layer of the fruits account for varietal differences in susceptibility to cracking. Russet is commonly associated with cracking in susceptible varieties.
York skin crack seems to occur on fruits grown on trees of comparatively low vitality or affected by drought during the growing season. It appears to be worse on light-crop trees than on those bearing heavy crops and on yellow and green parts of the fruits rather than on the red part.
I would use a posthole digger and drill several holes around the tree, then fill up the holes with 2" rocks. This would provide drainage. Make sure that you are applying the compost only out at the drip line, the area straight down from the outermost branches, a zone a couple of feet wide all around. None should go near the trunk. You can apply raw manures and not get the burning effect because it doesn't touch any plant tissue. Hope something helps. BTW, Peach Leaf Curl is a disease that affects several fruit species, you might put that name into your web browser and see if treating for that helps.
I would like to know, how to grow an apple tree. My husband would love to plant this kind of tree, but I am not sure how difficult it can be. I don't want to have wormy apples. I have heard that the tree needs to be sprayed, to prevent this. Does anyone have any advice for me on how to grow a healthy apple tree and what is the favorite apple tree you have grown? Thank you, from Wisconsin.
By Sandy L.
When is the time to harvest Red Chieftain apples?
I have a dwarf golden delicious trees with brown on most of the leaves and on some of the apples. What do I need to do? When? When is best time to prune this tree? It is about 12-14 ft. tall and is about 4 yrs. old.
I have 4 apple trees all in a row. 3 have blossomed, but one is just now getting it's leaves. Why would this one tree be so behind in it's growth from the others?
By Barb F.