I want to paint my refrigerator white (it is now almond). Has anyone had success and what type of paint did you use?
By RealtorRose from Malvern, PA
I also suggest that you purchase paint that is formulated for appliances. Paints like these are designed to hold up to heat and cold without cracking and peeling.
Is there a way to paint a white refrigerator red?
By Bessie from McComb
Sure, just scruff up the old paint,apply a primer coat and then the top coat. If you use a brush there will be brush marks. Maybe a paint roller would work. So you may want to use an aerosol paint can. I would test out your technique on a piece of metal first. Or if you could get the unit to a body shop they could paint the unit for you. A long shot is to look in the yellow pages under painting and call some of them to see if they can steer you in the right dircetion to find someone that does that type of work if you do not want to do it yourself.
Has anyone ever painted a refrigerator? If so, please tell me how you went about it and if the paint has held up.
I painted a stove years ago by taking it to the auto body shop. I think they charged me $60 and it looked good and lasted well.
When using an epoxy paint on a refrigerator what kind of roller should I use?
Napped. Good on you, too, for refreshing the appliance with paint instead of tossing it because it's not pretty anymoe:)
I have an old refrigerator which still works fine, but would like to change its color. (it's an old fashioned green color). Has anyone ever tried painting a fridge and if so, could you share your experience. What type of paint should I use and does anyone have any tips for applying it?
By Cheryl from Missouri
The first problem is that the enamel has a very glossy finish, and as a result, I have had a lot of problems with "overspray".
For example, if I paint the top half of the left side, and then pause for a minute (like maybe if I run out of paint and need to shake up a new can) you can tell where I stopped -- the finish is shiny and glossy up to the place I stopped. But when I continue, you can see a cloudy line of paint where the "overspray" landed on the paint that dried for a minute or two.
The only way I've found to avoid this problem is to start at the top and CAREFULLY work my way down, without pausing, and get the whole surface looking "wet" with paint. By the time I get halfway down the surface, the top is now "dry" enough (actually "tacky" enough) that I can't let any paint get up there, or it will make a cloudy misty finish, interrupting the nice glossy enamel finish. I just have to keep working my way down and get the whole side done perfectly, the first time, with no mistakes. If I run out of paint, or get a drip or something, I have to wait a couple hours for the paint to dry, and then start all over again at the top.
The second problem is similar -- after I paint the left side, then the right side, I'm screwed when I try to paint the front or top -- "overspray" from those surfaces lands on the shiny enamel finish on the other surfaces and makes them look cloudy/misty.
There MUST be an easier way to do this. I have repainted this whole darn thing 5 times, and I still keep getting this "overspray" mist problem (i.e. do the left side, do the right, do the front and accidentally overspray the right side; redo the right side but get overspray on the front, redo the front, etc. etc, etc.)
Can anyone offer any advice? (08/07/2005)
I have painted several appliances (fridge and freezer, I just finished number 8 or 9). It took me about two before I fully understood how to make it perfect. The last ones I did nobody can even tell they were not factory black. My preferred paint is Rust-Oleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy (Lowes, Home Depot, and Wal-Mart). I took the doors off, pulled out the seal (Yes, they are made to come out and if its not in good shape you can get one for ANY model at Sears parts for under $15.00), taped off the front and covered the door with newspaper and taped off to the edge. That way you are only painting what's supposed to be colored. Also, most door handles will come off if you can figure out how they are removed. Most fridges have a plastic vent at the bottom, and it can be removed and pulls off pretty easy. Use "plastic" paint for it. I tried to use the epoxy once and it just chipped or scraped off. This last one I did we used plastic paint and I couldn't scrape it off if I had to. I used the plastic paint on the hinge covers too.
The key is to get fine or medium sandpaper and rough up the entire surface. We are not talking about removing paint, just rough up the existing paint some, just going over the surface once. The paint is hard to deal with, but if you go in steady lines, left to right, top to bottom it turns out fine. Also, it takes about three coats. If you read the directions you will see they are very specific about when to apply the second or third coat, it's within 1/2 hour OR after 1 week, so keep moving so you can get it all done in one day. This helps cut down on the streaking and lets you see where you missed. White is harder to paint with then black. They also sell a couple of other colors but if your going to paint a stove or something, you can not paint the top with this stuff as it will burn.
Another tip is to start by spraying on the back so you can see how well it flows out and how quickly you have to move before you ever start in the visible areas.
The one I did a few days ago had the icemaker in the front and I was afraid to paint the plastic but luck had it, Sears had a change out kit for about twenty bucks. I have almost $40.00 total in a fridge that was less then a year old and would have cost me $1,800.00 to replace.
Wear old cloths. I refuse to paint inside after ruining my cabinets. The smell is better if you do it in the garage our outside.
This is not a 30 minute project. It takes a while to remove the stuff and then tape it off. Also, if you have an icemaker it may not be possible to completely remove the door, I just took it off and set next to the fridge because the water line was keeping me from completely removing it. I'm sure there is a way to do it, but for this it didn't matter. Once it's taped off you could just place it back on and paint from there.
My last piece of advice is about the tape. They advertise that blue stuff for painting, but I have not had any luck with it on the appliances. I use just regular masking tape. When I used the blue stuff, it left all kinds of glue behind and it was hard to remove. Regular tape also does the same, but it wipes right off. (08/09/2006)
How do you paint an old refrigerator?
Kay from Nobel, LA
By carla bledsoe
How do I go about painting a refrigerator? What type of paint should I use, do I need some type of primer first? Please let me know.
Denise from Oceanside, NY
By Guest Lady
What paint do I use to paint a refrigerator that has the fingerprint proof bumps. Should I use Krylon for plastic? The refrigerator is not metal.
Eileen from Chicago, IL