Having fresh cut flowers is a great way to decorate and add beauty to your home. The longer the flowers last, the more you get to enjoy them. This is a guide about making your cut flowers last longer.
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I have tried many things when it came to getting flowers on special occasions; even picking ones from my rose garden. Sugar and aspirin are the couple I did most often. With this I added a penny. I was never sure why, but my Grandma always did this so of course it was a good thing!
I recently was reading a article in some magazine while waiting to go into the doctor appointment. I found a very interesting fact, today's pennies do not have enough copper in them to do anything as a helping fungicide. So if you do this helpful idea make sure your penny was made before 1981. Find one and keep it just for the bottom of you cut flowers.
You'll be able to enjoy them so much longer. If cutting them from your yard, early morning is better, flowers are holding the moisture from the night before.
Source: Article at doctor's office from older magazine.
By Luana M. from San Diego, CA
Few things can elevate your mood like a pretty vase filled with a bright bouquet of fresh flowers. Whether you buy them at the store, or grow and cut your own, here are some budget conscious tips for to getting the most out of your cut flowers.
Double Duty Your Perennials: The cheapest way to enjoy cut flower is to grow your own. This doesn't need to be an ongoing expense, because most perennial flowers can easily serve double duty as cut flowers. Here are some good examples: black-eyed Susan (Rudbekia), blazing star (Liatris), chrysanthemum, delphinium, false sunflower (Heliopsis), goldenrod (Solidago), iris, peony (Paeonia), purple coneflower (Echinacea), Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum), and yarrow (Achillea).
Incorporate Alternative Plant Materials: Whether you buy a bouquet of cut flowers at the store, or grow them yourself, an easy way to add more color, texture, and interest to your arrangements is to utilize all of the plant materials that are available to you. This may include incorporating things from around your yard (like branches, seed pods, cones, herbs) or kitchen (like sliced fruit or vegetables) into your arrangements.
Use Flowers That Go From Fresh to Dry: Another great way to stretch your cut flower dollars is to choose long-lasting flowers that can be used when fresh, and then dried and used again. Good choices for fresh-to-dry flowers include globe amaranth (Gomphrena), lavendar (Lavandula), cockscomb (Celosia), statice (Limonium), strawflower (Helichrysum), annual salvia, heather (Erica), baby's breath (Gypsophila), cattail (Typha), and goldenrod (Solidago).
Tip: Some flowers hold their color after they dry better than others. You'll get the best color retention if you dry your plants in a dark location, because light can bleach the colors. Blue and yellow flowers retain most of their color when air-dried, whereas pink flowers tend to fade.
Hunt for Bargain Containers: Anything that can hold water has the potential to be fashioned into a vase for cut flowers. From a simple glass jar, to a pair of old rubber boots, there are plenty of places to find inexpensive and interesting vases and containers: yard sales, dollar stores, antique stores, Goodwill, and your own kitchen cupboards and closets.
Remember, Simple Can Be Beautiful: You don't need to create an over-the-top, show-stopping arrangement for beautiful design. Don't overlook a single beautiful flower alone in a vase-simple, yet effective.
By Ellen Brown
Every professional florist knows that the methods used to cut flowers and condition their stems can significantly extend their vase life. Here are a few easy tricks that will help you lengthen the life of the flowers you cut from your own garden - adding days of enjoyment to your floral arrangements.
When to cut: If you cut flowers during the heat of the day, they may already be droopy from the heat. Instead, cut them in the early morning, late afternoon, or evening when temperatures are cooler. Choose blossoms that are just about to open fully. Mature blooms that are heavy with pollen will not last as long as newly opened flowers.
The exceptions to this are daffodils and forsythia. Their tightly closed buds will not open up after they've been cut. Roses will continue to open as long as one outside petal has unfurled when cut.
Daisies, tickseed, and blanket flowers should be cut when the flowers are fully opened, but the centers are still firm and slightly green. Spiky flowers like gladiolus, lupine, and delphinium should be cut when lower flowers are in full bloom and upper buds are just on the threshold of opening.
What to use: Believe it or not, scissors are not the best tools for cutting flowers. They tend to crush the stems rather than severing them cleanly, which closes off the water channels in the stem that carry the water up to the flowers.
Picking flowers by hand isn't a good idea either, as you risk tearing the stems or uprooting the plants. The best tool for cutting flowers is a very sharp knife. If you can't find a sharp knife, a scissors or pruning shears will do, just make sure they are sharp.
How to cut: When heading out to the garden, take along a bucket of lukewarm water (100 to 110 degrees F) for transporting freshly cut flowers back to the house. When cutting, slice across the stems at an angle. This provides the largest surface area possible for water uptake and prevents the stems from resting on the bottom of the vase (which would also prevent water uptake).
The vase life of flowers can be extended significantly by conditioning the stems so they can absorb as much water as possible immediately after being picked. After cutting them, condition the stems appropriately according to type (see below), and let them stand in a bucket of lukewarm water (around 100 degrees F) for at least six to eight hours, in a cool, dark place.
It's okay to immerse the foliage, but be sure to keep the flower blossoms dry. Conditioning the stems in this way will let the flowers drink in the water and be at their sturdiest before you start to work with them in arrangements.
Woody Stems: The blossoms of some flowering trees, shrubs, and vines have woody stems that have difficulty taking up water. Examples include dogwood, forsythia, honeysuckle, lilac, mimosa, and apple trees, as well as flowers with fibrous stems like mallow, thistle, and chrysanthemum.
To condition their stems, strip off the bark 1 inch above the cut, then use a wooden rolling pin or rubber mallet to lightly crush the tip of the stem to break down the fibers. An alternative method is to use a sharp knife to cut a series of 1 inch long vertical slits up through the center of the base of the stem.
Milky Stems: The stems of some flowers are filled with a sticky, milk-like sap which prevents them from drawing up water when they are cut. If not conditioned properly, this oozing milky sap can quickly contaminate the rest of the flowers in your arrangement. Examples include daffodils, poppies, hydrangea, and hollyhocks.
To condition flowers with milky stems, cauterize (seal) the tips by passing them through an open flame or plunging them into a hot water bath. If you need to cut the stems to length when it's time to arrange them, you'll need to seal the tips again before placing them in a vase.
Hollow Stems: One of the secrets of conditioning flowers with hollow stems (e.g. amaryllis, daffodils, dahlias, delphinium, and lupine) is to fill the stems with water and then plug the openings. Simply hold each stem upside down and fill it with water using a medicine dropper. Tap the stems gently with your fingers to release any air bubbles, and plug the hole with a tiny, wadded up piece of a cotton ball. Return the flowers to their bucket of water until you are ready to arrange them.
Soft Stems: Soft-stemmed flowers should be cut longer in the garden, because when you bring them indoors you'll need to re-cut their stems under water. This is done to prevent air lock. Dunk the stem tips in a shallow bowl filled with water and use a sharp knife or pruning shears to re-cut the stems at an angle. Then condition the flowers in tepid water before arranging. If possible, cut the stems to the length you'll need in the arrangement before soaking them, so you can avoid re-cutting them.
By Ellen Brown
What is that magic stuff in the little packet that comes with flowers delivered by the florist? How can you get some to help your home-grown bouquets last longer? It was news to me when a friend who used to have a flower shop told me the secret. Just add a few drops of chlorine bleach and a teaspoon of sugar to a quart of water for a home-made equivalent. Mystery solved, money saved.
By Jennifer from Gilbertsville, NY
My husband knows that I love fresh flowers so he brings them home to me quite often. Last week, I received some beautiful fresh red roses, which I immediately put in a vase. However, we happened to go away that weekend, and when we came back the roses had drooped considerably, but otherwise were not in bad shape.
I remembered that florists sometimes use wire to hold up the heads of flowers. I had the idea of using sections of clear plastic straws instead. I cut the straw in 3 pieces, and then slit them along the side. That way, I could slip the straw section over the part of the stem near the bloom, where it was sagging. Voila! A little fussing with the placement in the vase, and I had a bouquet which would last a few more days.
For more support of the drooping stem, you can tape the straw section together, once it's on the stem, with clear tape. Also remember that it's best to try to arrange the flowers with the reinforcement AGAINST the droop to better withstand it.
By Pam from Los Angeles, CA
Another tip for keeping flowers fresh and even for revival is to put some fizzy clear lemonade into the water. This will revive them fantastically.
Penny from Cornwall, England
When cutting fresh lilacs, use a hammer to lightly crush the woody part of the cut ends to about 2 inches up the stem. The lilacs will then take up more of the water in the vase and stay fresher longer.
By Teresa A 
I like to use flowers from my garden and yard to share with our church family to aid in worship at our little country church. In this photo, I used Siberan iris, peony, and mock orange blossoms. The mock orange have woody stems. In order to prepare them to draw more water in the vase, I crush the stems with a hammer. The flowers can last longer that way.
By Twila from Versailles, MO