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I have a Crouse Hinds 2 pole 30 amp breaker. It will trip, but the room it's to will still have power to it. Why?
By Lonnie B.
A 2 pole breaker is only supposed to be on a 220 appliance. Your room is wired improperly. It is possible that part of the room is on another breaker.
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I wired a new room addition to my house. I'm using the 30 amp breaker and 12-2 wire. Every time I turn the power on power comes to the room, but when I flip the light switch it trips the breaker. How come?
You could have a loose wire or a circuit overload. Check this website for more information :http://www.doit reaker-problems.
What could cause the wiring in my house to maintain a low voltage current when the main breaker is turned OFF? We have unplugged all of the surge protectors, cable boosters, computers, microwave, etc. that may have a capacitor allowing for potential bleed-back. We have even turned of the external breakers for the HVAC unit and still have a low voltage current (<20volts) running through the lines.
According to this blog, you may have other circuits running in close proximity that do have live wires: https://diy.sta -backfed-voltage
It's hard to say without much more information about the circuits, but it is likely capacitive coupling between closely routed circuits. I've seen over 70 volts when testing a circuit that shared a conduit with a live circuit. Old meters didn't pick this up because they had relatively low internal impedance that allowed the voltage to drain quickly, my good digital has a very high impedance that does not shunt the voltage as fast as it builds up so I see the 70 volts(but is good for testing low amperage circuits). Capacitive coupling of this nature is very low total energy, kind of like a static charge it can't supply much current.
I have a 220 breaker that hums when turned on. It goes to a second breaker at the AC. Then that breaker feeds my well. I replaced both breakers. When the AO 200 a60 breaker is on at the AC box that feeds the well, it makes the breaker in the main box hum for a few seconds and then it trips the main box breaker. Any help please!
Something is not drawing the current correctly. You need a meter to test it, time to call in an electrician.
I'm trying to figure out why breaker won't reset after overloading the circuit with space heaters. I even replaced the breaker and it sparked when I tried to reset. I'm planning on checking plugs next to see if the wiring is damaged. Is this a good place to start?
I've turned everything off, unplugged everything and it was still tripping; it's an old house and there's way too much on the one circuit and the renters totally overloaded the circuit so there's a serious problem in the walls, so it's up to a professional now. Thanks.
I hooked up two 6 AWG stranded wires and a neutral from a 60A two-pole breaker at the main panel to a secondary panel in the shed 30 feet away. I ran a ground wire to an 8 foot copper rod for a good ground at the shed. I am trying to get a 20A GFCI breaker on the secondary panel to work. When I apply power at the outside receptacle connected to the GFCI breaker, it resets. A compressor on a separate 20A two-pole circuit at the secondary panel works, along with 110V outlets in the shed. Am I missing something about GFCIs?
My square D breakers show about 1/3 orange, but 2 show no orange. They will trip normally, but still show orange when reset.
Here is an article from ehow that may help you:
If you are not experienced with electricity, it's best to call in a professional.
I put in a new breaker box, but all my power is not right. Some of it is weak and sometimes dims and comes back.
I turned on vacuum cleaner in bedroom all the power went out, but I still have power in two sockets. powder and bathroom.
We have a dedicated panel for our water well. It has a 15 amp breaker which controls a single light fixture which we use for illumination and, with a heat lamp, for warmth to prevent freezing in bad weather. This is a procedure we have used for 10 years since the panel was installed. I turned on the light at the last freeze and when I returned to turn it off, it was not working. I tested the light bulb which was still good and then I replaced the fixture, but that did not correct the problem. At that point I tested the breaker with my multimeter. It read 124 volts until I turned on the light, then it dropped to 11 volts and the bulb wouldn't glow. I replaced the breaker with a new one and have the same drop in voltage with the very minor load of a single 60W bulb. The well pump and it's double 40A breaker are functioning just fine. What can be the problem?
Possibly the wiring between the fixture and the breaker?
I turned off the breaker to fix a lighting fixture. After the repair, we went to turn the breaker back on. It's a double one, and when we flipped it, the bottom one goes all the way on, but the top one gets stuck in the middle and sparks. We unplugged everything on the breaker (it's a heavy load - all the upstairs, stove, washer, and outdoor lights) and let it rest a while. The same thing happened. We tightened the connections; same thing. We replaced the breaker, with the same thing happening, it still keeps sparking and the top one won't reset. Guessing it's time to call an electrician?
Yes, I'd call an electrician.
You have a short in you wiring. The electrician will unwire the hot wires from the breaker and measure resistance between the two and between each of them and ground. These should all be open.
If the light switch were in the on position when the breaker was attempted, the problem is most likely at the fixture.
I recently purchased a house, and it is clear that the previous owner had not always done things correctly. My present concern is that there seems to be 14 gauge wire running off a 20 AMP breaker. I believe this is a code violation, and more importantly a fire risk. I would rather not open up the walls to replace the wire. Assuming the circuit would be OK on a 15, can I just have the breaker replaced? Is that an adequate solution?
Yes, that is a code violation and a fire risk.
And it invalidates the insurance.
To fix the problem,
1) get a breaker from the same brand and series but with a 15 Amp rating
2) turn the 20 Amp breaker off and pull it out.
3) swap the wire, that goes to it, over to the 15 Amp breaker
4) Make sure the 15 Amp breaker is turned OFF
5) insert the 15 Amp breaker
6) make sure the 15 Amp breaker is inserted fully and looks level with the other breakers
7) turn the 15 Amp breaker on and test the appliances or outlets that are fed from it.
If you forget point 4), there will be scary sounding arcing and sparking that could startle you into falling off your ladder or chair.
We have been experiencing a "hot" smell whenever we use the clothes dryer. We have cleaned all possible lint and dust from the dryer and the vent to make sure that was not the source. New notice the smell coming from the circuit breaker panel, any thoughts?
In addition to Bruce's recommendations, I strongly urge you to not leave the house when the dryer is running until this problem is addressed. Also, please consider keeping a fire extinguisher close at hand.
I have a circuit breaker that tripped last week. The backyard lights and dinning room light run off it and everything was off when it tripped. It would not reset even after pushing it all the way to off. I thought maybe it overheated so I left it off over night, but then the next day it still did not reset.
I waited until today when I am off work to go to Home Depot to by a new breaker and see if that was the problem. As I was getting ready to leave, I decided to test the breaker again just in case and lo and behold it reset and everything works just fine again. What would cause a breaker to not want to reset for several days?
A breaker can trip from overcurrent (a condition in which too much current is flowing and heats an element in the breaker causing it to trip - this can be reset after cooldown after several minutes) or from short circuit (way way too much current causing an instant trip).
My guess is you have a short circuit. Outside light makes me think water is getting into a connection somewhere (switch, light, junction box) and tripping the breaker. When water dries out, circuit can be reset.
Another cause of short circuit is rodent damage of the cable.
We live in a 10 year old home. The main breaker in our box has shut down our power two days in a row. We have been able to re-set it and get power back, but we are concerned. Any advice? We haven't been operating anything new in our home, so our usage should be the same as it's always been.
To be safe, call an electrician. This could potentially be a serious problem.
I have 3 220 double pole breakers a 50 40 30 I wanted to use the 40 for my dryer and 30 for my air conditioner. I just moved into a new place and these breakers came with the home so I disconnected the wires from the 30 amp and put the 30 amp breaker in 40 amps' place and the wires in the 40 I connected exactly how they were in 40 into the 30 and vice versa for 40. I was focusing on putting the dryer's wires into the 40 amp breaker and the 30 amp was originally for the dryer supposedly and the 40 breaker for the kitchen stove which I don't need I have a gas range stove. Anyway the 50 amp breaker is for the hot water Instahot and I didn't mess with it at at all. When I made the swap I lost hot water so I put the breakers back in their original positions and the hot water is back to normal. This is a 16 breaker panel 50 amp is (11 and 13) 40 amp is (7 and 9 ) 30 amp is slots (10 and 12). Why did I lose my hot water?
I am sorry you are experiencing this difficulty.
I always recommend an electrician to troubleshoot electrical problems because of the danger associated with working electrical.
One possible cause of this problem would be a broken / fractured backpanel connection in your box or 50 amp breaker. The bottom leg of the 30 amp breaker (position 12) and the top leg of the 50 amp breaker (position 11) share a connection point. A load on the 30 amp breaker would warm up the connection point and expand the copper so that a fracture may close its gap and conduct again.
The wire needs to be verified that each is going to where your panel describes. An electrician could ring this out with his/her meter.
When relocating breakers, always check that the wiring can support the breaker rating.
I have problem; my main 32 amp two pole breaker 220v is sometimes tripping and sometimes working without any problem. Mostly it's tripping in the early morning when I use geyser (water heater), but the breaker is not tripping when I switch on, it's tripping after some time. So I had an electrician visit and check for loose connections, but there are no loose connections at all. I replaced with a new geyser, but my problem is still the same. How can I sort out the exact problem.
Have the electrician measure the current. It sounds as though the circuit is overloaded. Is this tripping breaker a recent problem? Has electrical load been added to the circuit? An overload may take time to trip the breaker.
I plugged a small space heater into an outlet in my bedroom. I then showered, dressed, returned to the bathroom, plugged in my hair dryer, and lost all power in bedroom/bathroom/hall. I flipped all the switches in the circuit breaker panel, but that failed. Help!
It sounds as though the circuit was overloaded, so resetting the breaker is correct.
To reset a breaker, first shut off then turn on. Most breakers have a red flag in a window to signify they are tripped. This , I assume is what you already did.
Breakers, on an overload, will trip due to heat (kind of like the thermal overload that will prevent your hair dryer from running when it overheats), and may need to cool down before they can be reset. So you could try resetting again now without the hair dryer and heater plugged in. (the more things you can unplug or switch off of the dead circuit, the better)
If that doesn't do it, look for an AFCI or GFCI receptacle that may have tripped and reset it.
If that still doesn't do it, then an electrician would be needed to determine if the breaker is bad, the wiring has problems or a receptacle is bad.
The circuit breakers in all my four bedrooms are tripped and cannot be switched on, but the bathrooms are OK. I don't think the breakers are bad or the circuits are shorted because they are individual, and cannot all be bad at the same time.
By Peter C. from Katy, TX
Make sure there is absolutely nothing plugged into any of the outlets in the bedrooms. Something - a lamp, clock, etc. could have a short and will prevent the circuit breaker from resetting. Even a dented or cut electrical cord can do this. Also make sure none of the overhead lights are turned on. Check the light bulbs in them because even a bad light blub in one of them can cause a short. I spent 27 years working on computers and our rule was "check the easy stuff first". If each room is on a different circuit check each room individually. Eventually you will track down the culprit. Happy hunting and good luck.
The celing fan with lights, was off one night. While watching TV there were sparks coming from the celing fan housing and then the breaker tripped. I tried to reset the breaker and it will not reset. What could be the problem?
It sounds as though your fan motor failed. You will need to replace the unit.
If you don't use the fan, you could have an electrician unwire the fan and leave the lights connected. They could also verify there is no damage to the lighting circuit while doing this.
I have a 42 in. plasma, a lamp, another smaller TV, a DVD, and a Dish box connected to brand new surge protector. I went to turn my TV on and everything connected to that surge protector went out. Do you think maybe it had a sudden surge and it tripped the protector or is it the breaker box?