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Refinishing Hardwood Floors

Category Flooring
Hardwood floors are very durable, but they do require refinishing due to excessive wear or damage to the finish. This is a guide about refinishing hardwood floors.


Ask a QuestionHere are the questions asked by community members. Read on to see the answers provided by the ThriftyFun community or ask a new question.

By 0 found this helpful
June 18, 2008

Looking for opinions on sandless hardwood floor refinishing?

Joyce from Foksville, PA


By Linda (Guest Post)
June 22, 20080 found this helpful

My aunt always had the nicest hardwood floors. She would use Johnson's & Johnson's Hard Gloss Glo Coat Floor Wax (liquid) on her floors. I used it on my hardwood floors and they looked beautiful. My landlord told me she had never seen the floors like that beautiful! Later we owned and lived in a house for 30 years with real hardwood floors and that was the only floor wax I used on them.

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By Cathy (Guest Post)
July 5, 20080 found this helpful

Furniture refinisher will remove old stain, but leave the natural color. No sanding needed, and so easy to use! Just pour small area and whosh a paint brush around the liquid, then wipe up with a throw away rag.

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July 14, 20110 found this helpful

There are many options available online for the professional hardwood refinishing which can help you to choose hardwood refinishing according to your budget and needs. And some of them even provide financing option for their hardwood refinishing. http://www.wood  ishing-services/

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By 0 found this helpful
March 6, 2008

My husband and I bought a home last year that was built in 1880. It was time to rip up the carpet to see what was underneath and there is a hard wood floor. It obviously needs a lot of work since they had glued linoleum tile on it years back.


My question is since it's the only layer of wood between the basement and the room (1 inch thick boards) is it a bad idea to sand it and refinish it and use it as the floor instead of putting new wood on top? I'd like to refinish it but there are some gaps that would need to be filled in and it would need re-staining etc. Any advice would be great.

Jen from Cincinnati, Ohio


By rae (Guest Post)
November 2, 20070 found this helpful

Today i bought a product at Fred Meyers called Rejuvinate Floor Restorer and Proctectant. I want to try it on the 100 year old floors of the house I inherited from my mother. It is around $12 for a 16 0z bottle that should go a long way. I won't be home for about a month, but after trying it, i will let you know if it works. It is made by Life Products

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March 7, 20080 found this helpful

My partner and I bought a 50+ year old house that had original wood floors under the "stylish" shag carpet. What I have been doing as I take the carpet up is to clean it really well, then I fill in any gaps with clear caulk. Once the caulk dries I sand any areas that are particularly "bad" and then I clean the floors again. Then I have been using Minwax poly that gives a build quick so I do have to go days and days at a time doing 5 or 6 coats; normally two does just fine.


HTH -- MtM

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By Cathy (Guest Post)
March 16, 20080 found this helpful

I just refinished 2 rooms of hardwood flooring. I took my sister's advice and didn't sand. One room had old varnish and stain on it, the other lots of carpet glue. I used an adhesive remover for the glue, and a furniture re finisher instead of sanding. If you sand, it takes the color out, and being old wood, you'd have to sand much of the boards away. You pour some of the re finisher in a glass jar, use a paint brush to work it around and wipe the old stain/varnish up with a rag. you'd now ready to put the sealer on. It's a beautiful pecan/golden oak you couldn't match in the store with stain.

The gaps in your floor is what I have in our bedrooms. They built floors with the gaps to save on lumber. You could fill them in with clean caulk as someone suggested to help prevent dirt getting into the cracks. Good's a Big job, but well worth it.

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May 8, 20130 found this helpful

My husband and I stripped our floors down to the bare wood and used a Minwax oil based stain. Then he applied a water based polyurethane (Varathane). (I realize now, that was not OK, ugh.) Biggest problem is we didn't let the stain cure enough first. Now the polyurethane will not completely dry and the stain and oil are bleeding through. What a mess. Is sanding it down to the bare wood again our only option? And if so, if the stain continues to bleed, is it OK to sand it? Help! we really need a plan as to what to do next for peace of mind. :( Thank you!


By Jodi G.


May 20, 20130 found this helpful

I would suggest that you contact the Minwax company for advice.

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By 0 found this helpful
March 3, 2011

Does anyone have or have stained and refinished red oak floors to a pickled oak, limed or pickled white finish on them. I actually want a translucent white beige look and can't find the right stain formula. Most I've seen look too white paint looking. I've seen this finish in so many magazines and website pix, but can't find anyone who knows anything about it.

By angie from Cleveland, TN


March 7, 20110 found this helpful

If they are sanded down to the bare wood, I think you can use very thinned down white paint to get the look you want but I would ask at a reputable paint store. They should know.

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By 0 found this helpful
February 2, 2010

Do hardwood floors have to be resurfaced after smoke damage? It was protein smoke and soot.

By PKOENIG from Nashville,TN

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