After the ice dumps into the ice bin, about a quarter to half a cup of water runs into the ice bin. The ice maker is on a Kenmore refrigerator model 106.9557681.
By Ron
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Start simple, make sure your refrigerator is level; especially side to side. Next, if the previous yielded no joy, try adjusting the ice cube size, often a lever, located in plain sight adjacent to the plastic cover on the ice-maker module itself.
Otherwise, look under the plastic cover (it often just snaps off with moderate finger pressure), adjust the size setting screw as has been earlier recommended. Next, in logical progression, try replacing the water valve, usually located on the bottom rear of the 'frige. The incoming water line will attach to this valve. You'll need to locate the ID plate/decal for the model & probably the serial numbers of your machine (the location will be offered by most online parts purveyors).
Shop, you'll find a disparity in prices; don't overlook local sources, they'll often price match to get the sale, plus you'll often save the shipping. I think you'll find that the timer function is handled within the ice-maker module itself, although there are a few exceptions. You may be pleasanly surprised by the economy of replacing the ice-maker module in its entirety; it's usually simply done too. Can you see the usual pair of fasteners below the unit? There will be a wiring harness to disconnect as well, generally hidden between the ice-maker module & the rear wall of the freezing compartment.
You had best unplug the 'frige before performing the disconnect; 110 volts in combination with water IS hazardous to your breathing permit! I have only replaced ONE complete ice-maker module which I have owned personally, & that was caused by the abyssmally hard water found in the area.
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