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Starting Seeds Indoors

Seed Starts by WindowOften it is recommended that certain seeds be started indoors in order to get a jump start on the growing season. This is a guide about starting seeds indoors.
     

Solutions: Starting Seeds Indoors

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Paper Towel Tube Seedling Pots

Seeding contains made out of paper towel tubes.When it's time to transplant my seedlings into larger pots, I usually have a good supply of recycled plastic yogurt cups. But this year, I ran out of them. This turned out to be a good thing as it forced me to try something new. And probably even better.

I went to my stash of paper towel tubes that I save for kids' crafts. I found that I could get 3 pots from one tube.

After cutting the tube into thirds, I cut 3/4" slits around one end of the tube. Then folded the cut parts in to form a bottom for the pot. A bit of tape will keep it secure. You'll remove the tape before planting if you intend to plant the tube pot in the ground along with the seedling.

Fill partially with soil and tuck your seedling into its new pot. Add the rest of the soil and water. By the time the seedlings are ready to plant outdoors, the pot should be softened up considerably from watering and will add good stuff to the soil. Cutting the paper towel tube. Taping together a bottom for the container.

It might be necessary to open up the bottom and tear the pot somewhat in order to allow roots to reach the soil easily. Or you can remove it completely if you want and put the used pot on your compost pile.

By June from upstate NY

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Starting Seeds Under Fluorescent Lights

Light can be a limiting factor to starting seeds indoors. Even with a sunny, south-facing window, it's difficult to provide young seedlings with light of sufficient enough intensity. Fortunately, a couple of 40-watt fluorescent lights can usually make up for a lack of daylight. Here are some tips for setting up and getting the most out of a growing space using fluorescent lights.

Finding Enough Space

When space is limited, look for creative ways to carve out some extra room for starting seeds. Remember, it's only a temporary loss of space - usually no more than 6 to 8 weeks. Start by taking a look at what you already have for fluorescent lighting. Under cabinet lights in the kitchen or a banker's lamp in the den are all you need to start a small flat of seeds. Ask yourself where you can you afford to give up some space? Here are some other possibilities:
  • Basement
  • Spare bedroom
  • Laundry room
  • Shower of second bathroom
  • Kitchen counter
  • Top of refrigerator
  • Dining room table
  • Closets (remove clothes first)
Light fixtures can be hung inside bookshelves, storage shelves, or attached to overhead pipes in the basement. An inexpensive garment rack on wheels also makes a great frame for hanging lights on during the growing season and can double as a clothes rack the rest of the year.

Choosing the Right Fluorescent Lights

After you carve out some room, customize your lighting to fit the space. Forget about the fancy (and expensive) full spectrum "grow lights." You don't need them. A couple standard 40-watt fluorescent lights will work just as well.

Most major home stores sell fully assembled, 4-foot long shop lights for between $20-$30. Each will hold two to four 40-watt fluorescent tubes, which are an additional $4-$5 each (or sold in larger packs). If you have the space, this is the ideal set up for starting several flats of seeds. If your space is limited, you may need to locate flats piecemeal in whatever space is available and use smaller fixtures or lamps that hold a single 40-watt fluorescent bulb.

Determining What to Grow

Few of us have the time, space, or budget to grow everything we want to, so consider starting the following types of plants early:
  • Plants that take a long time to get going (e.g. wax begonias and impatiens)
  • Plants that are hard to find
  • Plants that are expensive to purchase or replace (e.g. some perennials)
  • Plants that are "best started indoors" according to their seed packet
  • Plants with fine seeds that are easily washed away by rain
  • Plants with seeds favored by animals
  • Plants that you like best

Maximizing Light Efficiency

Fluorescent lights fade with age and you can expect to replace them (at least for growing purposes) every year or two. Here are some ways to maximize their efficiency and keep their light burning bright for as long as possible:

  • To keep your fluorescent lights working smoothly, maintain temperatures of 50 degrees F or above. Functionality is decreased significantly near 40 degrees and on and off cycles may be difficult (or fail) at or below 32 degrees.

  • Accommodate growing plants. Hang your light fixtures so they can be raised or lowered as necessary to accommodate growing plants. Ideally, the lights should be as close to the seedlings as possible without actually touching their leaves. Not only does this maximize light intensity, but it also lets the plants benefit from the small amount of radiant heat emitted by the bulbs.

  • Dusty light bulbs don't illuminate as much light. Keep your light bulbs clean and free of dust to maximize their efficiency.

  • Add reflective surfaces. Use mirrors or attach aluminum foil to fixtures to bounce light around and help disperse it more evenly around plants. If possible, apply a flat white paint to the surface surrounding your seed trays. It seems counter-intuitive, but flat white paint reflects light more evenly than glossy paint does (and it doesn't create hot spots). If you can't paint the surface your seeds trays are sitting on, try setting them on top of a white vinyl tablecloth.

  • Rotate your flats. Light is weaker at each end of a fluorescent tubes lighting - with the most intense light being near the center. If starting seeds in multiple flats, rotate their position each week so each one gets a turn near the center.

  • Alternate between light and dark. Ideally, seedlings should be under lights for 16 hours a day, followed by at least 8 hours of darkness so they can utilize their food for growth. Because many plants can get by on as few as 12 hours of light a day (and fluorescent lights also last longer the less they are turned on and off), gardeners can grow multiple seed trays by keeping lights plugged in 24/7 and alternating between 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark.

By Ellen Brown

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What You Need To Start Seeds Indoors

Starting seeds indoors is relatively easy, provided you have access to a few basic tools. Here's a list of what you will need to get started.

Growing Space: You'll need an area of indoor space that you can dedicate to growing seedlings for as long as 6-8 weeks. Ideally, the space should be heated, yet still be cool (e.g. a heated basement). Use an old table or sheet of plywood laid across sturdy saw horses to hold seed trays. Inexpensive metal shelving units, like those designed for garages and workshops, are another good option. Dirt and water spills are inevitable, so if you're concerned about damaging work surfaces make sure you protect them with a cheap vinyl table cloth or plastic tarp.

A Strong Light Source: Although many seeds prefer to germinate in darkness, growing seedlings need a strong source of light. There's no need to purchase expensive "plant lights." Inexpensive fluorescent shop lights work just as well. Suspend the lights so they are not more than 2 - 4 inches above the leaves of the seedlings and gradually adjust their height as the plants grow. Seedlings need about 16 hours of bright light per day, which can be accomplished by connecting the lights to a small adjustable timer.

The Ability To Control Heat: Most seeds prefer warm soil to germinate, between 75-85 degrees F. Heat mats designed for germinating seedlings are an easy way to control soil temperatures. Because seedlings tend to be happiest growing in semi-cool temperatures, once seeds germinate, you can simply move them off the mats. During their growth, temperatures of between 60-70 degrees F are a good mid-range for most seedlings (10 degrees cooler at night). Cold-tolerant flowers and crops prefer it a little cooler, between 50-60 degrees F, whereas heat-loving plants will grow best in temperatures ranging between 65-75 degrees F. Signals that the temperature is either too warm or too cool include spindly growth (too warm) or seedlings that are smaller and slower growing (too cool).

Seeds: Not every type of seed grows best when started indoors. For example, certain vegetables like beets, beans, carrots, and corn, and salad greens are best sown directly into the garden. Check the back of your seed packets for specific growing information on how to start seeds indoors. Many include instructions on when to sow them, how far apart to space the seeds, and when to transplant the seedlings outdoors.

Seed-Starting Pots: These can be of any size, from a clean yogurt cup to a cottage-cheese container, to an ice cream pail. If you plan to use last year's pots, sterilize them with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, rinse thoroughly, and let them air dry. You can also purchase peat pots or seed starting plugs from a garden center, but depending on what you are growing, you may end up having to move it to a larger pot (to prevent it from becoming root bound) before transferring it outdoors. Another caution for transplanting peat pot seedlings into the garden is to make sure none of the sides of the pot stick out above the soil line. The pots will act like a wick, pulling moisture from the area around the seedlings and creating a barrier that is hard for the roots to penetrate.

Seed-Starting Mix: Make your own, or purchase a ready-made soilless mix. There are dozens of home-made seed-starting recipes floating around, but most boil down to the same basic ingredients.

Soilless Seed Starting Mix

  • 2 parts peat moss
  • 1 part vermiculite
  • 1 part perlite

Modified Commercial Potting Soil

  • 2 parts commercial potting soil
  • 1 part vermiculite
  • 1 part screened compost or peat moss

Ample Moisture: Water is essential for seedling growth, but over watering usually means certain death. Seedlings should be kept evenly moist, but never wet. The safest way to water them is from the bottom. One way to gauge whether or not it's time to water is by the weight of your seed trays. Fill your tray with seed starting mix and feel the weight of the tray before you water. Now moisten the seed starting mix and check the weight again. Notice how it feels heavier. Check the weight of the tray daily; when it starts to feel light, it is time to water.

By Ellen Brown

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Tissue Seedling Starters

I have my medicine in my purse so I always stuff the doser cup with toilet tissue or facial tissue. It makes these darling little seed starters. I am going to make some of these for this spring, and put a little bit of honey in the bottom of it and then keep them for the spring. I wonder if it will keep the shape or if I should wait until spring actually gets here? After
four hours of being in the doser cup, they hold their shape!

They are so cute. Honey is a homemade antifungal or rooting hormone for plants roots to keep them from getting root rot.

Medicine Cups and Tissue Seedling Starters

By Robyn

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Start Seedlings In Recycled Trays

It's March. Time to start your garden seedlings!

You know the clear egg cartons and the clear croissant or cookie containers with clear lids that you get at the grocery store? Don't throw them away! Buy seed starter discs and soak them in these containers. Drain off the water and add the seeds. Close the containers! Sit under a plant light. When your plants are tall enough, transplant outside

An economical way to start seedlings and completely reusable!

Source: My husband thought of it! :)

By Gooby from Straughn, IN

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Sprouting Seeds with Coffee Filter

An easy way to sprout seeds is to put the seed on a coffee filter and fold it over. Wet it and put it in a baggie. Close the baggie and wait for it to sprout.

By Robyn

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Pouches for Starting Seeds Indoors

To plant seeds and not take up a lot of space, use vinyl pouches and hang them on your windows with suction cups and water them with a turkey baster. This works well in a window that gets a lot of warm southern exposure light. I started my tomato seeds like this. At night, I use a light bulb and aluminum foil to keep them warm. They are over an inch high now and the leaves smell great like a tomato!

Source: Disney Fun Magazine Spring Issue in February I believe.

By Ginger from Westport, CT

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Starting Seeds Cheaply

Starting Seeds CheaplyI am going to start this by saying, "My husband is the best." He helps me with everything and he is always encouraging me to find new things that I love and enjoy.

Now granted he has not liked listening to my gardening plans repeatedly day after day, but he has been patient. So when I showed him that some of my seed choices would have to be started indoors, he was eager to help with the lighting situation (our kitchen is sunny but never sunny enough).

So his mother had some scrap 2x5's (I think) and we had a fluorescent light (cheaper but works just as good) and he made me the best seed germinator ever. I used simple seed starting trays. And it ended up costing nothing since we already had everything. Plus he painted it green so it looks better in the kitchen.

In the seed catalogs, something like this can get really expensive.

Jesikarena from Trinity, NC

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12 Steps To Sowing Seeds Indoors

Radish seedlings coming up in peat pots indoors.Sowing seeds indoors is a great way to get a jump on the growing season - especially for vegetables and flowers that take a long time to reach maturity. Because you control the growing environment, young plants are protected from harsh weather and hungry animals while they are in their most vulnerable stages of development. By the time you transplant your seedlings to the garden, you've also extended your growing season by as much as two months. Here's how to go from indoor seeds to transplanted seedlings in 12 easy steps.
  1. Review your seed packets. The key to sowing seeds indoors is timing. It's better to start them too late than too early. Read over your seed packets and note any information on starting seeds indoors. Most seeds can be started indoors from six to eight weeks before the date of your last frost. (Find your last frost date here). Really fast growers may only need a month, while the slowest growers may need as long as three or four months before their ready to be transplanted.
  2. Choose your containers. The containers can be store-bought or homemade - it doesn't matter as long they can hold a few inches of soil and provide ample drainage. Many gardeners use disposable aluminum pans, fast food containers, plastic cups, or yogurt containers. Plastic store-bought seed trays are fairly inexpensive and can be reused for several years. Before adding soil, wash the containers and disinfect them in a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). Rinse thoroughly and let them air dry.
  3. Fill the containers with sterilized mix. Look for a commercially available "seed starting mix". These typically consist of a mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, and/or perlite, plus nutrients to aid germination and encourage growth. Pour a small amount of mix into a 5-gallon bucket and thoroughly moisten it before adding it to your containers. This eliminates the need for watering the seeds from the top (and sending them everywhere) after planting them. Fill your containers to within 1/2 inch from the top with the mixture. Use your hand or a stiff piece of cardboard to level the soil.
  4. Sow the seeds. If planting more than one type of seed per flat, plant the seeds in rows. Sow thinly. A common mistake is to sow too many seeds per container. This results in crowded plants competing with each other for nutrients and makes thinning and transplanting more difficult.

    • Small seeds. Sow tiny seeds using a salt shaker (or place seeds individually using a tweezers) and cover them with a light dusting of dry soil mix. Very fine seeds can be pressed lightly into the soil.

    • Large seeds. For even spacing, place chicken wire over your container and put a seed in each hole. Use a pencil or chopstick to poke each seed into the soil. Cover the with soil according to directions on the seed packet (usually twice as deep as the seed's diameter).

  5. Moisten the seeds. To keep seeds and soil firmly in place, spray them with a gentle mist from a hand-held plant sprayer.
  6. Cover the containers. Cover the container with a clear plastic bag or piece of glass to conserve moisture. (Many store-bought seed trays come with plastic covers.)
  7. Label everything. This is especially important if you are growing more than one type of plant per flat!
  8. Place seeds in a warm spot. Every type of seed has an optimal soil temperature for germination (usually between 75-85 degrees F). At that temperature, the maximum number of seeds will germinate and in less time than at any other temperature. A few like it warmer or cooler, so check your seed packet for information. Place your seeds on top of a refrigerator or near another heat source until they germinate. If you have the budget for them, electric germination mats are a handy way to speed up the germination process and keep the soil warm while the seedlings grow.
  9. Check frequently for signs of growth. As soon as plants being to emerge, uncover your containers and move the seedlings into bright, indirect light. If you're using fluorescent lights, position the seedlings 1 or 2 inches below the lights for 16 hours each day. Water as needed to keep the planting mix moist.
  10. Pot them up. When seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall and have several sets of true leaves, they should be moved to deeper containers or individual pots so they have more room to grow. Fill the new containers with the same pre-moistened, sterilized growing mix. Use a fork or small spatula to carefully lift and move the seedlings to their new containers. Multiple plants in the same container should be spaced 2 or 3 inches apart.
  11. Begin weekly feedings. By now your seedlings will have used up all the food stores supplied by the seed, so you will need to begin feeding. Use a good liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength once each week. Continue to give them as much light as possible - rotating the containers daily to encourage even growth.
  12. Harden and transplant. In 3 or 4 weeks, or when the overnight temperatures have reached 50 degrees F, start to acclimate your seedlings to outdoor conditions. One or two months after sowing, you can harden off most plants and plant them in the garden. A cold frame is ideal for this, otherwise set the plants outdoors (in a shaded, protected area) for a few hours, and gradually increase their exposure to the brighter light and outdoor temperature over a period of 10-14 days before moving them to their permanent position.

By Ellen Brown

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Start Seeds in Take-Out Coffee Cups

Save your paper or other take-out coffee cups to plant seeds in if you start seeds for the garden in the house, as we do here in upstate NY.

Put a small hole in the bottom for drainage and fill with potting soil. I got my potting soil at a dollar store and $2 worth was more than enough for 38 starter pots. I put 3 tomato seeds to a pot and separate them later when I put them in the garden.

By kemperjl from Gilbertsville, NY

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Sprouting Seeds

Starting your own seedlings is an easy and economical way to get a jump on the growing season. It gives you the opportunity to experiment with hundreds of different plant varieties and gives you the satisfaction of knowing that your garden will be organic right from the very start.

Read More...

By Ellen Brown

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Egg Shell Seed Starters

I read somewhere and looking forward to trying this with my Granddaugher. Start seeds in empty egg shells. Treat the carton like a lil green house. After plants have reached a size to plant put egg shell which you've crushed into the ground. I've not tried this, but it sounds like a really neat idea and a fun time with my granddaughter too.

Pam
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Early Spring Plant Starts

When you start seeds in the early spring, you need to keep them gently warmed to get the best rate of germination. The perfect gentle heat is on top of the refrigerator. Cover the trays so they won't dry out. You can stack them up if you're starting a lot of seeds.

As soon as they germinate, they'll need light, so check every day or two.

By Louise the Frugal Yankee
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4 Steps To Figuring Out When To Start Seeds Indoors

Seed Starts by Window IndoorsFor slow maturing plants and gardeners with short growing seasons, starting seeds indoors can be a crucial element to achieving success. To figure out the optimal time to start your seeds indoors, all you really need is a bit of backwards thinking.

Read More...

By Ellen Brown

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Egg Carton Seed Starter

Use the inner plastic lining from a biscuit tin or an egg box to sow seedlings before transferring out of doors or into larger pots. Saves a few cents.

By Cait from Ireland

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Starting Seeds In February

Starting Seeds In February

Starting Seeds In February

On February 1st, we planted tomatoes, peppers, basil, and peppermint. We are going to experiment with our Wall O Waters this year, so are preparing our plants well ahead of the normal Mother's Day planting date in our area.

The sticks you can see are toothpicks with the name of each plant written in fine-tip permanent marker.

By Katie A. from Gallup NM
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Questions

Here are questions related to Starting Seeds Indoors.
Starting Plants Indoors

I live in Nebraska and have decided to start my own garden. I was wondering when do you start planting the seeds indoors so that I can later put them outside?

Hardiness Zone: 4b

By Teresa from NE

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Most Recent Answer

By jeannette194003/12/2010

Teresa, First you need to know when is a safe time to put your plants in the ground for your area. If you call your local County Extension Service, they can give you an idea as to a safe time. Look at the plant seed packet, calulate how low it takes for those seeds to germinate. They will get embryo leaves, then continue to grow to a stage where you can transplant them into small containers.

Once the weather starts getting a bit warm (not freezing)you need to let these baby plants get use to the outside elements like, sun, wind, etc. Just set them out for a few hours a day, this will strengthen them, so when you finally put them in the ground they will be nice and sturdy. If you put them it direct sun right away you may destroy these little tender plants-baby them and be nice to them until they are strong enough to take the outside elements.

This process of dragging the baby plants in and out can take a few weeks, be patient-it will pay off. This technique I used while living in Conn. where we had some long winters it worked every time. Some times we could not even put tomatoes in until Memorial Day! If you build your self a cold frame out doors you will not have bring the plants in and out. But you still have to lift the lid on those frames or you may bake your plants. all for now, jeannette (fla)

Starting Vegetables from Seed Indoors

I have a vegetable garden and this was my first. It did very well, however, I want to start seeds inside and transfer them into the ground next time. So my question is when should I start my seeds inside? I live in the Lubbock, Texas area.

By wondaful from Lubbock, TX

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Most Recent Answer

By frugalsunnie10/01/2011

Google the name of your local university plus the words cooperative extension service for the website of the local extension office-tonnes of fantastic information geared to your locale:)

Starting Perennials Indoors

I would like to start some perennial seeds indoors, basically, carnations, dianthus, poppies, etc. How and when do you start them indoors to plant by next spring? I am in zone 5 (Michigan). Also, I have some of the seeds, but don't know how long they are good for. I would be grateful for any help.

By Linda from Brighton, MI

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Archives

Starting Seeds Indoors

Start your seeds indoors, and after they sprout put one plant per small pot in a cold frame outdoors. You can space you plants correctly for maximum production and get early crops. Here I am with Lettuce and beets ready for harvest in May.

startseedsindoors.jpg

By Rich


RE: Starting Seeds Indoors

You have a beautiful garden, and yard! (07/12/2005)

By Tami


Starting Plants Indoors

Every year I hear people complain they missed starting their plants indoor.

If you are in Missouri, or growing regions 5 (really just check your local USDA zone map), this is the time to start.

In 2-3 weeks I will be planting my tomatoes indoors, in egg shells filled with potting soil. I place them in cut down egg cartons and put a domed clear plastic cake cover (from a Walmart cake) over the top.

They will be ready to plant by garden season. Later, I will also start inside my watermelon and zucchini and a few other plants.

If you are further south, you will want to start this process sooner.

By mom-from-missouri from NW Missouri


RE: Starting Plants Indoors

Two people living in the same zone can still have drastically different last frost dates, which is the key to knowing when to start plants. For instance, I live in PA and my mom in MO: we both are in zone 6, but her average last frost date is mid-April and mine is mid-May, 4 weeks apart.

If you don't know your average last frost date, call your county extension (check your phone book government pages for the number) to find out when it is. Then take a calendar, mark the date, and number off the weeks before and after. Most seed packets will say when to plant the seeds and/or transplant starts relative to that date: for instance, start tomatoes 6-8 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost. Cabbages can be planted out a few weeks before last frost if hardened off, and take about 4 weeks to get to transplant size, so you start them 6 weeks prior to last frost. Squash get planted out 2 weeks after last frost, beans about the time of last frost, etc.

So you can then take this information from the seed packets, go back to your calendar, and write in which weeks to start different kinds of seeds. Keep in mind that some crops, like lettuce and radishes, you may want to plant several small plantings of several weeks apart, so they aren't all ready at once. You can save this calendar and use it year to year, too. Who cares if the days of the week don't match this year.

If you plant fall crops, you will also want to find out your average first fall frost date, too, so you can determine what the latest date is that you can plant a crop and still have it mature. If beans take 60 days from seed to picking, you don't want to plant them when the frost date is only 40 days away. (02/16/2010)

By Contester


Empty Yogurt Containers For Starting Seeds

Save empty yogurt cartons to start plant seedlings for your garden in the spring. Empty cardboard egg cartons also work good. So do clear plastic containers from the bakery-mini greenhouses.

By Melanie


RE: Empty Yogurt Containers For Starting Seeds

I usually find that egg cartons are too shallow and by the time the seeds are growing, they have dried out or the roots have grown too quickly. same with old toilet roll insides. Basically not worth the trouble. Better to use a proper seed growing tray and have enough depth for the roots and width not to dry out. (07/08/2005)

By


Reuse Plastic Containers for Seedlings

I love to recycle the plastic containers from single applesauce servings and even plastic baby food containers. I'll poke holes in the bottom of the containers with a pair of scissors, then fill the containers with moistened potting soil. I either plant a seed or transplant a newly sprouted seedling to the container.

If it's still cold in the house, I cover the container with plastic until late February. These are the perfect size for me to start working on growing plants that will go into my garden when no chance of frost remains.

I also reuse drink bottles from Fuze to grow seedlings in. Their design makes it easy to cut in half evenly. This picture is a rose seedling I'm growing! I'm gradually preparing my garden I'll have in the Summer now.

By Sharon from Fairview, NC

Reuse Plastic Containers for Seedlings

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